Sunday, January 25, 2009

Considerations For Shortening Sleeves

By Donna Trumble

One of our students recently found the perfect blouse; bought it, and brought it home. Then she realized the blouse was long sleeved, and she had never altered a blouse before. She set the blouse on her cutting table, and thought to herself. This is the a great blouse. I love it. If I try to shorten the sleeves, I could ruin it.

We live in Texas where it commonly reaches a hundred degrees during the summer. Long sleeved shirts are just too hot to wear. So one day, my husband and I decided we would just shorten a bunch of his long sleeved shirts. It is just like having brand new shirts.

Long sleeves can easily be shortened or made into short sleeves. Indeed, you can alter the length of a sleeve almost at will. This is until you have already cut off part of the sleeve. The test is to alter the sleeve correctly.

A sleeve can be changed in many ways. You can vary the length significantly from sleeveless to short sleeve to three quarter sleeve length. You have many options to embellish the sleeve with lace, frills, or cuffs. It is a project that you can have real confidence doing if you follow some very basic steps.

Step One, set the length of sleeve you want. This sounds easy, and it is. However, you do have to choose the length you want for this sleeve. You may determine this length by comparing other shirts until you find one that is just right. You can even use this other shirt like a template.

Now that you have a clear idea what length you want, measure from the top seam at the shoulder down to the point you want your sleeve to end. Then measure from the under arm seam to the same point parallel point on the sleeve. To this measurement, add one and a half inches. Mark the sleeve straight across with a fabric marker.

Third, Cut the sleeve straight across, connecting both under arm and top sleeve measurements.

At this point, you will need to adjust for the taper of the sleeve shape otherwise when you finish the sleeve will bind or bunch up in the underarm. The stitching inside the sleeve between the hem and under arm sleeve must be removed in order for you to reshape the sleeve. Sew a seam along this taper.

To accommodate for the tapering, you will need to reverse the taper angle for the final inch and a half. This way when the hem is folded in, it will match the taper.

Finally, finish the sleeve hem. Here you have several choices depending on the general style of the shirt. You may install a cuff or not. You may finish with top stitching or blind hem. In either case, the procedure is much the same. Fold the edge of the sleeve under half an inch and press it. Fold it under again one inch and press. Finally, sew the seam as decided.

Your sewing machine may have a specialty stitch called the blind hem stitch. You can use this stitch with the specialty blind hem foot to produce your blind hem. You can also get exceptional professional results using a specialty machine called a blind hemmer. - 15634

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